Intrepid explorers and cocktails on the beach

The poor blog has been slightly abandoned in the last few days thanks to us having an all round excellent time in Penang. We moved from the glorious Holiday Inn (boo) to the lovely Shalinis Guesthouse - a small Hindu family-run enterprise right by the beach, where you're free to use the kitchen (yey!). We have been making use of the tea-making facilities, a fridge, and a lovely balcony to sit on, and all for a measly 16 pounds a night for the room.

We've ventured into Georgetown, not altogether successfully thanks to everything shutting for the beginning of Ramadan, but a wander around was nice. Mostly, we've enjoyed lazing on the beach, a (particularly potent) cocktail by the water's edge for Sarah's birthday, and doing lots of reading.

Today, however, we decided to turn explorer and caught a bus to the entrance of Penang's National Park. After registering with the park officials (in case we got lost!) we set out, armed with only a basic map, half a chocolate cake, and a box of fish curry from the nice lady by the roadside. After a close encounter with some demon monkeys, and a sighting of a tiny crocodile in the water (eek!) we headed into proper jungle. An hour in, we stopped for lunch in true local style, avoiding the ants/ bugs/ butterflies etc, then carried on to a beach rumoured to have a turtle population.

Sadly, our turtle search proved fruitless, but we did manage to spot a white bellied sea eagle (yes, we've just looked it up, no, it wasn't a seagull) which was amazing. The huge majestic bird circled overhead, as we ate our Kendal Mint Cake (found crushed at the bottom of the rucksack) and drank our water.

After a relax on the beach we trekked back, and despite sweat to rival any athlete, and me nearly breaking my neck on a very slidey patch of mud, we made it back in one piece. Potentially the days biggest disaster was when I entrusted Sarah with the job of pressing the button on the bus to get the driver to stop. She thought I'd seen a nice art gallery; we missed our road.

So, an excellent day had by both of us, and a real taste of jungle adventuring. Tonight we ate at the fantastic food court down the road (not nearly as glamorous as it sounds) and intend to have a drink on the beach later. This. Is. The. Life.

Penang, the luxury route

So, Sarah and I have spent a couple of days relaxing in a lovely hotel on the island of Penang courtesy of my Dad (thanks!), enjoying such luxuries as a clean shower, actually effective aircon, and gloriously white sheets.

Our journey here was less than fun, stuck as we were on a bus that moved at 20 miles an hour, for six hours. It was grubby, hot, and not that entertaining a ride. I was terrorised for much of the journey by a small cockroach that continually crept up the window, but didn't hang around long enough to be caught. Tired as I was, and somewhat emotional, I spent a couple of hours staring doggedly at the hole from which it emerged in an attempt to scare it out, with limited success. However, the great beach, night market, and the prospect of trips out in the next couple of days have raised our spirits, and of course, a bit of high-end accommodation has helped.

It's back to the beach for us, and here begins our last week (boo!).

Tea and hills

We could hardly have come to the Highlands and not seen a tea plantation, so this morning we got up and headed up to the BOH (Best Of Highlands) plantation north of Tanah Rata. The views up there were simply astonishing, and the tea factory was free to look around, and really interesting. Both of us sampled a cup sitting on the balcony overlooking the tea fields, which was pretty cool. The shop sold many kinds of tea at a really reasonable price, and the thought of bringing home something that we had seen in production meant that we made a purchase or two.

Having cadged a lift to Brinchang from a really nice South African couple (taxis are such a rip-off), we wandered around the smaller town, and then came back. After a quick stop, we walked out of Tanah Rata and took in some of the amazing views of the hills and valleys. It's been really nice being able to walk without sweating ourselves silly, and there's been a lovely breeze all day. You only have to look down the main street here to see the hills, and it's really very beautiful in an almost Alpine provincial town sort of way.

Tomorrow we head out to Penang by bus, which should be a change of scene again. Bring on the beach!

KL to the Highlands. Malaysia that is, not Scotland

So, today we left KL and headed by bus (plush bus) up to Tanah Rata, a small settlement in the hills in the Cameron Highlands. Driving up here was an experience in itself: 45km of hairpin bends, punctuated by villages on the hillside and stunning waterfalls, as well as some serious drops. Our coach driver took it all at a speed quite happily, accompanied by the odd groan. The huge lunch we enjoyed at Central Market earlier could have been a mistake.

Our last day in KL was excellent, and we both really felt like we'd 'done' the city by the time we left. Having promised to regale culinary exploits I'm afraid I might have to disappoint. We ended up going out for a fantastic curry (although what it consisted of I couldn't tell you), and then were both far too full to manage to squeeze in any pastry. I half-heartedly bought a coconut tart today, which was a total cop-out, but very good.

Yesterday we made it up KL tower (the Petronas Towers having limited viewing opportunities) and took in the wonderful panorama. It was an excellent way to round off our time there, and gave a sense of scale that had been hard to achieve frequently travelling by underground train.

So, the hills. Just a stop off really before we hit Penang for the penultimate stretch (sob) but a great opportunity to cool down and take in some beautiful scenery. The town itself is not much, but there's everything we need here for a couple of good days. No doubt there will be more to tell tomorrow.

KL - purpled robed adventures

Today has mostly comprised of Sarah and I laughing inappropriately. After a truly spectacular lunch - curry, rice, and something that was probably deep fried vegetables - for the princly sum of about 80p each, we headed to the National Mosque. Dressed in shorts and tshirts, we were required to don some fantastic purple floor length robes, complete with hood, in order to enter and look around. I could barely contain my giggles as the woman at the gate helped me on with the lilac monstrosity, but as soon as Sarah pointed out our likeness to Lord of the Rings characters, I was gone. Several discreet photos later and a few deep breaths, we actually got to wandering round the impressive structure, and found it a peaceful change from the trekking along main roads that has become part and parcel of our days here in the city.

After derobing, we caught a bus back into the main area to have a wander and a much-needed drink, and then Sarah nearly lost her arm in a train door when an over-enthusiastic railway employee decided there was room for one more. Cue more hilarity and a lot of weird looks, fortunately we only had one stop to go.

Tonight's plan is a culinary adventure. Having spied a fantastic little bakery off one of the market streets in Chinatown, we plan to sample as many of their pastry-based delights as we can stomach, sweet or savory. We've done quite well at eating locally so far, but we decided that it's time for an all or nothing stab at embracing Asian street-food. Until tomorrow, probably, when I'll attempt to recount the results.

KL, and a bit of Harry

After a lazy morning (much needed), we headed towards Little India for a quick explore. We had lunch in an amazing vegetarian Indian restaurant where I had a thali and Sarah had a lime soda - if that doesn't take you back Dad I don't know what will. The food was incredible and cheap, and spurred us on to... shopping (surprise surprise).

Navigating our ways down the back streets smelling of rotting fruit (the street, not us), we could almost have been in Bombay, and the difference in culture was striking. We strolled the market stalls and picked up some Indian delights, which have to remain a surprise at the moment...

By now, hot and tired, Sarah had a funny turn in a cafe and lost her hearing momentarily (!), but, as ever, was perked up by a cup of tea. Seriously, that girl has an earl grey stream, not a blood stream.

Once recovered, we traveled back into the centre via the monorail and LRT trains and went to Times Square Mall (13 floors with an inbuilt rollercoaster, no less) to catch the new Harry Potter film. Sarah, the girl who "never cries at films" actually cried four times, mostly because of the English scenery (and when Dumbledore died). I laughed. Not at the extremely violent death, at her.

So, another day ends here in KL, it's pretty late, we're sat here giggling and thinking of you all before we go to share another beer before bed. Much love.

KL - culture vultures and a bit of shopping

Have spent today exploring bits of the city, and find it to be like many other cities: busy, noisy and exciting. We started off the day by popping into Central Market to get our bearings and get some tourist info. From there we walked to the Museum of Islamic Arts which was great - really interesting. We are, in fact, our parents...

From there we were going to walk around the Lake Gardens but felt too tired, so we took a cab to Times Square - a massive shopping mall. We've already earmarked a cinema to go to at some point which will be fun, and the variety of shops there could well keep us occupied for a few hours! By this point the lack of food was a big factor in our energy levels, so we stopped for some (very) late lunch.

We narrowly averted disaster on the way home when we got on a monorail train in the wrong direction, but soon found our way back. This evening looks to be a quiet one, we've been on our feet all day, and I think we could both do with a cold Tiger.

KL - arrived and... filthy, as ever

Got up from our lovely hotel this morning (breakfast by the beach no less) and caught an (overpriced) taxi to the scarily provincial airport on Samui. Think Coventry airport, with less safety measures. The flight to KL went without mishap, although Sarah and I did feel like the pioneers of flight in our bumpy little plane.

Having had something to eat at the airport, we caught a taxi to Chinatown where we found a good hotel, in a pretty central location. The streets are a massive change from island life, but we're excited about the next few days. We've just had a wander around the immediate area where it's hot and polluted, but there is so much to see and do. We've already checked out a Hindu temple, and walked through a market.

Much love to you all, we had some very British rain earlier and thought of England!!

Koh Phagnan - Samui: the final bit of beach

So, today is our last day on these beautiful islands before we head out to KL tomorrow. After battling crippling homesickness for a few days we're both feeling much more positive, and have worked out what we need to get through: namely tea, Howards End, Leo beer, the occasional pizza, and a bar showing English/ American comedy.

We've spent the last few days on Koh Phangan, as I mentioned, in a fab hotel. As well as exploring the island on the (pretty rubbish) road systems, we found some time to explore a few hidden beaches, and generally topped up the tan. We saw a couple of the beautiful temples that the island has, and felt that by travelling around we achieved more of a sense of the real place than we would have done had we sat on a beach all the time. This morning we wandered around the town and found a gem of a CD shop where we killed some time before getting the ferry back to Koh Samui. We checked into a hotel on Buddha Beach - white sand and palm trees, and hills not unlike Tracey Island, and we're planning on heading out for a cocktail later.

Despite the homesickness, these islands have been a great experience, not least because of the songthuews (trucks, ostensibly) in which we explored. The dubious driving and the wind in our hair was an experience not to forget. But for now, this afternoon holds the beach, perhaps some snorkeling, and a lazy evening. Signing out, a much jollier pair.

Koh Phangan, Thailand

Yesterday, Sarah and I caught the ferry from Samui to Phangan, another island, mostly for a change of scene and to escape the noise of the bigger place. Koh Phangan is beautiful, 70% jungle and some beautiful tropical beaches, and much more laid back. We're staying in a cute bungalow, which was cheap ostensibly because the shower is terrible. No matter, the pool has views over the sea.

This morning we went to a temple, and then did a bit of a trek in a national park. Perhaps the most annoying thing is that because the roads are so lousy here it costs a lot to get anywhere. But, we came here and we want to see the place.

The island town, Thong Sala, is pretty small, but holds most normal amenities. We're staying in Haad Rin, on the other side of the bay to the notorious full moon parties fortunately, and last night we found a bar that showed Friends and served tea which was amazing. Just that little part of home was a real comfort!

Samui, an island of three, perhaps four, halfs

Yesterday, having had enough of the beach, we took a trip out to a Buddhist temple on Samui. The Big Buddha, as it is known locally, is a huge statue on a peninsular on the island. Having used our ever-improving bargaining skills to get a taxi there and back, we enjoyed a trip down into 'real' Samui, and were both astonished by the poverty that sits alongside the affluence of the hotel scene. The temple itself was lovely, a real moment of serenity from the chaos of the tourist areas, and an insight into the lives of the monks who worship there.

Walking back down the street to our hotel later last night, past the tawdry ladyboys (yes, they do exist) and the sunburnt tourists we realised there is a lot more to this island than meets the eye, and not all of it is nice.

A mention must go to potentially the most disappointing moment of the holiday so far: Sarah, fancying a healthy snack,. bought some mango from a 7/11. Sadly, it turned out to be pickled mango - looks like mango, tastes like gherkin. Truly revolting.

Chaweng, Koh Samui, Thailand

So, we moved on from the rather depressing village of Maenam and travelled around to the East side of the island to the more touristy Chaweng. It was reasonably difficult to find decent cheap accommodation here due to the many high0end resorts that line the (beautiful) beach, but we eventually settled on the Relax resort, which is a pretty standard offering. Today we travelled inland to the stunning Nu Muang waterfall, an 80m cascade and a fantastic opportunity for swimming. I took the perfect photo opportunity rather too enthusiastically and ended up going in fully clothed, much to Sarah's amusement.

We've been struck in both areas how readily, and brazenly, the sex industry here operates. The number of middle-aged Western men with young Thai girls seems to high to be coincidence.

The nightlife here is certainly more varied than in Maenam, but it's harder to get a decent cheap meal. We found a fantastic roadside cafe run by a lovely couple in Maenam, and ended up going there three times because it was so good, and obscenely cheap. Here, there's an abundance of Western options, but the more discerning traveller needs to go further afield to really experience Thai food.

The Thai beaches are really stunning, and we're both enjoying a bit of down time before the flight to KL on Wednesday. Signing off.

Maenam Beach, Koh Samui, Thailand

Apologies for the delay in updating this.

Our last day in Bangkok was really busy. We went out to the weekend market at the edge of the city where virtually everything is for sale: clothes and jewelery, furniture, musical instruments, animals... the latter perturbed my soft-hearted companion as they were mostly kept in tiny cages and were of the dangerously cute variety. For me, the wriggling trays of maggots for sale were enough to speed up my step.

In the evening we wandered from our hotel (The Codia Residence, also in Silom, and a fantastic 7 pounds pppn) to Patpong night market, located in one of the more 'exotic' nightlife areas. Never have I been offered such remarkable things from a small laminated card! With a beer inside us and a delicious deep fried sweetcorn snack from a street vendor (all of 40p), we headed back.
In the morning the extremely helpful staff booked a taxi to the airport for us, and we spent the remainder of the day traveling to Koh Samui, an island off the east coast, by plane, bus and then ferry. Having got a taxi at the end of a very long day we were pleased to arrive at our bungalow in the Tropical Beach Lounge Resort near Maenam beach.

Today we have sat on the beach: pure white sand and clear blue sea make for a fantastic view. Sadly, the internet on the island is limited and expensive, so my updates will have to be brief. We've both realised that with traveling and seeing amazing places comes a sense of weariness from constant moving, and a slight sense of homesickness, despite our slowly tanning legs! Signing off.